Yosemite - The Incomparable Valley
by Tony Parkinson
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| "The great rocks of
Yosemite, expressing qulities of timeless, yet intimate
grandeur . . . are the very heart of the earth speaking
to us" - Ansel Adams |
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| Mention
the word "Yosemite" to any landscape
photographer and they will, likely, think of one name
. . . . . Ansel Adams. His classic shots such
as "Monolith", "Clearing Winter Storm"
and "Moon And Half Dome" have inspired generations
of visitors and, justifiably, earned Yosemite a reputation
as a photographer's paradise. Towering granite cliff
faces, lit by the setting sun, interlaced with majestic
waterfalls and framed by luscious forests and meadows. |
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Probably
the classic view of Yosemite Valley is from Tunnel
View some 600 feet above the western end of the valley
and it was near here that, in 1944 Ansel composed
his famous photograph "Clearing Winter Storm".
No doubt there will be opportunities for you to create
your own compositions from here. The valley is seen
laid out ahead of you with it's entrance guarded by
El Capitan (to the left) and Cathedral Rocks (to the
right, above Bridalveil Falls) with Half Dome and
Clouds Rest seen in the distance. Tunnel View is easily
reached by taking the route 41 exit to Fresno, climbing
the hill and pulling into the large parking area at
the Entrance to Wahwona tunnel. Mid to late afternoon
is the best time for photography as the sun moves
to the west and in turn golden light graces the valley's
features, first El Capitan, then Bridalveil Falls
and finally Half Dome. |
| Half
Dome, the symbol of Yosemite, stands at the eastern
end of the valley and is the tallest and most recognisable
rock in Yosemite. Rising 5000 feet above the valley
floor, Half Dome is the world's second sheerest rock
wall and a continuous source of photographic inspiration.
There are many different views of Half Dome that can
be committed to film (or silicon), but the classic
views are from Sentinel Bridge (including the Merced
River in the foreground), from Stoneman Meadow (catching
the sun's last light illuminating the sheer face),
from Tunnel View (using a Telephoto lens to pick out
Half Dome and neighbouring Cloud's Rest), from Glacier
Point (especially good for picking out clouds around
the summit of Half Dome) and using the lone Elm tree
in Cook's Meadow as foreground interest. Depending
on your viewpoint, images can be composed at almost
any time of day, but I'm particularly fond of the
last couple of hours of daylight as just the tip of
Half Dome is bathed in warm light. |
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El
Capitan, guards the northern side of the entrance
to the valley. Rising over 3500 feet above the Merced
River, this giant monolith is reckoned to be the largest
single block of exposed granite in the world. Most
of Ansel Adams' best known images of El Capitan were
taken from Devil's Elbow close to Cathedral Beach.
This can be reached by following the river east about
50 yards from a small layby containing a sign that
explains the different types of granite found in the
valley. The east Face is illuminated by the morning
sun but as the afternoon wears on, the distinctive
profile is better defined as it is thrown into shadow.
Another pleasing composition can be taken from tunnel
view as the evening light causes the granite of El
Capitan's west face to glow a lovely golden orange.
The most popular viewpoint for this monolith, however
is from Valley View as this provides easy access and
reflections in the river (together with snow covered
rocks and trees in winter) |
| Of
the 13 waterfalls that feed Yosemite Valley, none
is quite so imposing as Yosemite Falls. Falling a
total of 2425 feet in 3 sections, taller than any
building and 15 times the height of Niagara Falls,
Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in North America
and the fifth highest in the world. Unlike many of
the features of the valley, Yosemite Falls face east
and are therefore best photographed in the morning
as the sun illuminates the plunging water whilst still
being low enough to give good modelling light to the
granite walls. The falls are best photographed in
the spring as snowmelt turns the falls into a rushing
torrent, but by August has dried to a wispy thread.
The falls have their own parking area from which good
photos can be taken, but for the best shots, head
over to Sentinel Bridge for a classic view then walk
west along the Merced River to Cook's Meadow for another
excellent composition before heading up Yosemite Creek
and using the bridge as a foreground interest. |
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Bridalveil
Fall is often said to be the most beautiful of Yosemite's
waterfalls. The wind gently whips the wispy cascade
back and forth as it falls 620 feet and this "Pohono
Effect" as it is known can be mesmerising. Like Yosemite
Falls, Bridalveil is a "hanging valley", created when
glaciers widened the main valley leaving the tributaries
to leap over sheer precipices. However as Bridalveil
has a larger watershed than Yosemite Falls, it tends
to maintain a stronger flow of water throughout the
year. Many people say the best views of Bridalveil
are taken from a lay-by on Northside Drive, looking
across the valley, but I found using a telephoto lens
to pick out the "Pohono Effect" from Tunnel View gave
a composition more to my liking. Another pleasant
composition can be made along the Bridalveil Trail
at the base of the Fall, either by photographing the
water flowing gently over moss-covered rocks, or by
using a low viewpoint and wide-angle lens to include
the ferns and logs in the foreground of a composition
including the Fall. |
| The
view from Valley View, rivals the splendour of that
from Tunnel View, but is far less photographed. A
tranquil place to watch the last light of the setting
sun roll across the valley from left to right, almost
like a curtain is being drawn across. As the Merced
River flows across the shot, getting low to the ground
can make the best compositions. The west facing rocks
look best bathed by afternoon light and in winter,
clumps of snow form on some of the rocks in the river
making this one of the best spots for winter shots
in the valley. |
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| For
those who are prepared to spend a little more time
on foot, a pleasant afternoon's hike offering good
photographic opportunities involves taking the Mist
Trail along Little Yosemite Valley to Vernal Fall
then continuing along either North Trail or John Muir
Trail to Nevada Fall. However, along Mist Trail, particularly
in spring and early summer, taking something to keep
spray off your camera and lenses is definitely advisable.
Alternatively, an easy half-mile stroll along Tenaya
Creek will bring you to Mirror Lake. Some wonderful
images have been created here, particularly of Half
Dome reflected in the lake, but the lake is slowly
silting up and has almost disappeared, particularly
in summer, so catch it while you can. |
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One
often overlooked feature of the valley, but a particular
favourite of mine, is Yosemite Chapel, which can make
a good foreground to Half Dome, though finding the
right angle can be a challenge. Above the valley to
the south, Glacier Point Road (which is closed from
the first snowfall of winter until May) leads up to
Taft Point, Sentinel Dome and Glacier Point, which
all provide dramatic panoramic views of the valley.
Do NOT miss the opportunity to photograph one of the
most photographed trees in the world, the lone Jeffrey
Pine poised on the summit of Sentinel Dome. |
| To
the south of Yosemite Valley, close to the park's
south entrance on highway 41, lies the Mariposa Grove
of Giant Sequoias. Whilst not as impressive as the
more extensive groves in Sequoia National Park, this
stand of the planet's largest life-forms, provides
good opportunities for those wishing to photograph
these giants but constrained by time. Just to the
north of here, at Wawona, the Pioneer History Centre
brings to life the late 19th century (with staff dressed
in period costume and happy to pose for photographs).
The adjoining Wawona Hotel, an elegant whit building,
dating from 1875 has played host to at least 2 US
Presidents (Ulysses Grant and Theodore Roosevelt). |
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| To
the north, Tioga Pass Road (Highway 120) crosses the
Sierra Nevadas, passing through forests, alpine meadows
and beside clear blue lakes. Reaching almost 10,000
feet above sea level, Tioga Pass closes with the first
snowfall of autumn and doesn't reopen until elate
spring or early summer. In summer, as the Pass reopens,
Tuolumne Meadows provides a haven for nature photographers
as wildflowers burst forth in a riot of colour. Also
along Tioga Pass Road, Tenaya Lake is a large and
peaceful alpine lake offering good opportunities whilst
Olmstead Point overlooks the valley providing a good,
but distant, view of Half Dome. Back in the valley,
the Ansel Adams Gallery provides a place to visit
in bad weather or to seek new inspiration. |
| All
my images of Yosemite have been taken using Canon
EOS 35mm SLRs. In terms of lenses, a range from 24mm
to 300mm should see you through, though extending
this range to 17mm and 400mm will give a wider range
of options (I'll let digital users figure in the "cropping
factor" for themselves). A sturdy tripod is necessary
if you wish to photograph sunrise or sunset pictures.
A polarising filter will reduce reflections from foliage
and give more saturated colours and a Neutral-Density
Graduated filter or two will enable you to deal with
the contrast between the sky and the valley walls.
In terms of film, Fuji Velvia will give beautifully
saturated colours, be sure to take at least twice
as much film (or digital storage) as you anticipate
needing, because you will need it. Should you need
them, the Ansel Adams Gallery stock batteries, filters,
accessories and film (but, sadly, last time I was
there, the only slide film available was Kodak). Additionally,
should you have problems with your camera, they will
also rent a replacement out to you |
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| Getting
There |
| For
those approaching from San Francisco or Northern California,
the most direct route is along Highway 120, though
Highway 140 provides a slower but more scenic route.
Approaching from Los Angeles and southern California,
the best route is Highway 41. For those approaching
from the east (Lee Vining, Bodie "ghost town", Mono
Lake and Death Valley), the shortest route is along
highway 120 over Tioga Pass, however, as already mentioned,
this route closes with the first snowfalls of autumn
and doesn't reopen until the summer, necessitating
a 200 mile detour, either to the north via Reno &
I-80 or to the south via Techahapi pass |
| In
conclusion, whilst it may seem that, photographically,
Yosemite has been "done to death", whether you want
to find a new image of this majestic and spectacular
place or to create your own interpretation of some
of the iconic images that have made this National
Park world famous, Yosemite has much to offer and
I look forward to returning there. |
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| Essential
Reading and websites |
| Photosecret
- Yosemite by Andrew Hudson is the definitive
guidebook for photographers, although this is basically
the Yosemite section lifted straight from his book
Photosecrets
- San Francisco and Northern California and this
will be a better option for those touring a wider
area |
Map
and Guide to Yosemite Valley by Dean Shenk, Reineck
& Reineck
Photo
Traveler's Guide to Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada
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National
Park Service - Yosemite
The
Ansel Adams Gallery
American
Park Network - Yosemite
NPS
Maps of Yosemite
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