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The
Lazy Photographer's Guide 07 - Isle of Skye
by Chris Maddock
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This
article is the seventh of a series of articles covering
much of the UK. It is basically a list of locations
I have programmed into my GPS Satellite Navigator -
most of which I have visited, the rest being other places
I intend to get to some day. It is not a comprehensive
guide to Skye, only the parts I have been to and photographed
- or intend to.
It will not contain any photographs, the intention being
simply to provide information about location, access
and likely subjects. I have photographs of many of the
locations in my galleries at www.f22.org.uk
if you want to see what you could see before setting
out.
I've
called it The Lazy Photographer's Guide since most of
the locations are less than half a mile from road access.
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Aird
of Sleat
GR NG 589 007
The furthest south that you can get to by car on Skye.
Access
- travel down the Sleat peninsular on the A851 and turn
off at Armadale for Ardvasar and Aird of Sleat. There
is room to park where the road ends.
What
to see - the coastline and views across to Eigg and
the mainland across the Sound of Sleat. If you walk
to the Point of Sleat, a mile and a half or so, there
is the Point of Sleat lighthouse and views across to
Rhum or further up the Isle of Skye to the Cuillin Hills.
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Allt
Dearg House
GR NG 477 292
An old white-painted house by the Allt Dearg Mor river
Access
- take the A87 to Sligachan and just to the west of
the bridge turn off on the A683 Dunvegan road. After
about half a mile, there is room to park by the footpath
end, GR NG 479 297. Take the footpath south until you
meet the river, then follow that upstream.
What
to see - the house, the river, several waterfalls, and
the Cuillin Hills in the background.
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Ardvasar
Bay
GR NG 634 034
On the road down to Aird of Sleat, this is a rocky bay
that looks to be of interest.
Access
- travel down the Sleat peninsular on the A851 and turn
off at Armadale for Ardvasar and Aird of Sleat. After
about 600 yards, just before Ardvasar village there
is room to park on the left, opposite the "fire
station" - at least the signs on the structure
indicate it's used by the fire service. The bay is to
your left.
What
to see - the bay, comprising rocky and sandy areas,
saltmarsh, associated flora and fauna and views across
to several small islands and the mainland at Mallaig.
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Bla
Bheinn
GR NG 560 215
Bla Bheinn (pronounced Blaven) is one of the most pleasing
looking mountains on Skye. Although it's not actually
part of the Cuillins range, it is often considered to
be one of the Cuillins. There are several places from
which a good view can be obtained, this is the closest.
Access
- take the B8083 road from Broadford to Elgol. Just
after you round the head of Loch Slapin, you'll find
a car park on the right.
What
to see - the footpath to Bla Bheinn leads up beside
a river, with several waterfalls and offers excellent
views of the mointain.
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Bornesketaig
GR NG 370 706
On the north-west corner of the Trotternish Peninsular,
Bornesketaig offers a rocky bay with an interesting
coastline.
Access
- take the A855 north out of Uig, turning left after
about 6 miles at Kilvaxter. Follow the road round to
a crossroads and turn left. Continue down to the old
slipway.
What
to see - the bay, slipway, boats, coastline around and
(on a clear day) the Isle of Harris in the distance.
Taking the upper road back out of Bornesketaig, there
is a ruined chapel at GR NG 381 710, just after a cattle
grid, which looks to have potential for sunsets.
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Bride's
Veil waterfall
GR NG 495 509
This rather attractive waterfall is just off the A855
a couple of miles south of The Storr.
Access
- there is a car park and picnic table just to then
west of the road at the above grid reference, about
5 miles out from Portree.
What
to see - the waterfall, obviously. The best angle is
to cross the river below the fall and climb onto a small
hill the other side overlooking it, this allows you
to be shooting down rather than up so the sky will be
less of a problem.
From this location, there is also a good view of The
Storr with the Old Man of Storr leaning out across the
skyline.
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Camas
Malag
GR NG 582 193
A small bay offering views of Loch Slapin and Bla Bheinn
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford. About a mile after
the ruined church of Cill Chriosd, the main road turns
to the right whilst the road down to Camas Malag goes
straight on. Follow this (narrow) road down to the sea,
about a mile, where you will find plenty of room to
park.
What
to see - Camas Malag bay, Loch Slapin, Bla Bheinn, coastal
flora and fauna.
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Cill
Chriosd church and loch
GR NG 617 206
Cill Chriosd (Christ's Church) is one of the two oldest
Christian churches on Skye, the present ruin is believed
to date from the 16th or 17th century when it replaced
a much older building on the same site. It ceased to
be used as the parish church in 1843 when a new church
was built in Broadford.
Access
- take the B8083 out of Broadford, heading towards Elgol.
Cill Chriosd is about three miles out of Broadford,
and cannot be mistaken. There is parking on the left
of the road, opposite the ruin.
What
to see - the ruined church and the graveyard with a
number of headstones dating back to medieval times.
Just to the south of the church is Loch Cill Chriosd,
a rather attractive lake often offering good reflections
of the hills beyond.
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Cuillin
Hills
GR NG 480 319
There are many locations to photograph the Cuillin Hills,
they appear on the skyline almost anywhere on Skye.
However, this is one where the main point of interest
is the Cuillins, the others have other interests as
well so are covered seperately.
Access
- take the A87 north from Sligachan for about a mile
and a half, where you'll find a layby on the right
What
to see - the Cuillin Hills, of course. Moorland for
the foreground, with associated flora and fauna.
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Elgol
GR NG 516 135
Elgol is THE classic Skye location - a rocky beach with
the Cuillin Hills dominating the skyline.
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford as far as it goes, about
12 miles of single-track road with passing places. The
sign for the start of Elgol is at least a mile from
the end. The B-road ends in front of a cafe with a parking
area, but if you carry on down the hill to the right
there is a large parking area by the beach and jetty,
over the bridge by the school.
What
to see - the beach with the dramatic skyline of Cuillin
Hills across Loch Slapin. Also, the islands of Soay
and Rhum if the light and visibility is right. The curve
of the river across the beach near the jetty works well.
If you walk out along the beach the rocks make good
and varied foregrounds, as does the small eroded cliff
on the right. Walking beyond that cliff the shore changes
to a limestone pavement, for an alternative foreground.
Apparently, walking around to the next headland (just
watch the tide, though) you'll find the round boulder
that features in Joe Cornish's photo of Elgol, as used
on the cover of his book "First Light". I
haven't found it yet myself, but I will.
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Loch
Langaig
GR NG 463 709
A small loch near the top of the Trotternsh peninsular,
with a fine backdrop of the escarpment edge leading
to The Quiraing
Access
- Take the A855 north from Portree. About 2 miles beyond
the turning at Brogaig (for The Quiraing and Uig) you
will pass a small loch on the left, then after a few
hundred yards a smaller one on the right with a small
hut beside it. Just round the next corner is a layby
(looks like an old quarry). Walk west from the southern
end of the layby, following the stream. Loch Langaig
is about 100 yards from the road.
What
to see - the loch and the escarpment beyond. If you
continue along the path past the loch you'll reach Loch
Hasco about half a mile further on. Beyond that, a path
leads to The Quiraing if you wish.
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Gauscavaig
Bay
GR NG 597 116
A rocky bay on the western side of the Sleat peninsular,
with a castle ruin to the northern side
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale (for
the Mallaig ferry) and turn right a couple of miles
past Isle Ornsay. Follow this minor road over the hills
past Ord Bay and Tokavaig. You can park at Gauscavaig
Bay itself.
What
to see - the rocky bay with the ruins of Dun Scaich
castle. There is a footpath at the northern end of the
bay which leads to the castle if you wish.
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Gesto
Bay
GR NG 350 369
This is simply a layby and viewpoint beside the
road.
Access
- take the A863 between Sligachan and Dunvegan. The
layby is on the western side of the road about a mile
south of Bradacale
What
to see - this location offers a fantastic view up Loch
Harport with Gesto Bay in the middle foreground and
the Cuillin Hills in the distance. Looking west to the
entrance to Loch Harport, you can see Ardtrek Point
lighthouse with Oronsay and Wiay beyond. If visibility
is good, you can see South Uist in the far distance.
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Glen
Brittle
GR NG 409 205
Glen Brittle is the western boundary of the Cuillin
Hills, giving a dramatic view of the mountains, along
with rivers and waterfalls. The above grid ref is the
end of the road, other viewpoints are listed along the
road.
Access
- turn off the A863 Sligachan-Dunvegan road onto the
B8009 towards Carbost. The turning for the single-track
road down Glen Brittle is about a mile and half down
this road.
What
to see - about 3 miles down the road is a car park at
GR NG 424 257. This gives a stunning view of the grandeur
of the Cuillins along with access to the river Allt
Coir a'Mhadaidh. This offers several waterfalls, both
on the main river and on the first tributary stream
the path crosses.
There is another waterfall on the Allt a Choire Ghreadaidh
river, on the left by the Youth Hostel at GR NG 409
225.
Half a mile further down the road is the Mountain Rescue
Post at GR NG 411 215. A path from here leads east along
the river to a high waterfall, Eas Mor.
Finally, the road reaches the beach. Here you can get
a good view of Sgurr Alasdair, the highest of the Cuillins.
A path leads closer to Coire Lagan if you wish. The
beach can be quite interesting, with a nice meander
to the river as it crosses the beach.
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Kilt
Rock
GR NG 508 655
A vertical cliff of columnar basalt, this is well worth
a look.
Access
- from the A855 main road up the Trotternish peninsular,
turn off opposite Loch Mealt, just south of Ellishadder,
where you will find the car park and viewpoint.
What
to see - Kilt Rock, obviously. Also a spectacular waterfall
in the foreground, plunging over 350 feet into the sea.
Whilst there, Loch Mealt is also worthy of a few exposures.
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Knock
Bay
GR NG 671 087
A mixed rock and sand bay with an ruined castle at one
end.
Access
- taking the A851 main road down the Sleat Peninsular,
Knock Bay is about 3 miles beyond Isle Ornsay. A track
leads down past a farm to the bay, with a footpath across
the river and through some woodland to the castle. You
may be able to park at the top of the track, failing
that try outside the Toravaig Hotel (just to the north)
or at Teangue to the south.
What
to see - the bay and castle, with old boat remains on
the shore. Across the Sound of Sleat you can see the
mouth of Loch Nevis.
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Lealt
Gorge
GR NG 516 605
This is a deep gorge, complete with a couple of waterfalls
and an old diatomite works.
Access
- park in the layby at the above grid ref, beside the
A855 main road up Trotternish. It's just north of the
village of Lower Tote, about five miles north of The
Storr. A footpath leads to a viewing platform above
the gorge, although it is possible to descend into the
gorge.
What
to see - the gorge and works with the coastline around.
The waterfalls, the first of which is just below the
main road.
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Loch
Fada
GR NG 492 485
Loch Fada offers a great view of The Storr from the
south
Access
- take the A855 north from Portree. As Loch Fada comes
into view you can either park by a cattle grid or, a
couple of hundred yards further on there is a small
layby (one car only) opposite a cattle enclosure.
What
to see - the fine view across the lake with the impressive
backdrop of The Storr
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Loch
nan Eilean
GR NG 471 306
Just off the road, this loch offers a good view of the
Cuillin Hills
Access
- taking theA863 Dunvegan road from Sligachan, there
is a layby about 1 mile along. The loch is a few hundred
yards further along,
What
to see - the loch and surrounding moorland with the
Cuillins or Marsco in the background.
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Loch
Slapin
GR NG 571 212
Loch Slapin is a fine sea loch, offering good views
of the mountains around
Access
- take the B8083 from Broadford until you reach the
shore of the loch just after Torrin. There are several
places you can park beside the loch on the eastern side,
and a couple on the western side.
What
to see - from the east you get a stunning view across
the loch with Bla Bheinn rising beyond, whilst from
the western side you can get Beinn DeargMhor and Beinn
Dearg Bheag with the loch and fishing boats in the foreground.
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Luib
GR NG 564 279
Luib is a small village on the shore of Loch Ainort,
on the eastern side of Skye.
Access
- Luib lies on the A87 between Bradford and Sligachan.
What
to see - views of Loch Ainort, the stony beach beside
the loch. Also a thatched cottage with stones hanging
from ropes to hold the roof down in stormy weather.
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Macleod's
Tables
These are a pair of flat-topped mountains dominating
the Duirinish peninsular on the western side of Skye.
There are various good locations from where to view
them, of which here are a few.
GR
NG 275 483 - where a minor road leaves the main A850
just before reaching Dunvegan from the east. Looks south-west
at the Tables.
GR
NG 276 458 - at the other end of the minor road above.
GR
NG 263 462 - shortly after the B884 leaves the A863
south of Dunvegan, there are a few places you can pull
off briefly to photograph the Tables with a small stream
in the foreground.
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Neist
Point
GR NG 133 478
A spectacular promontory on the far west of Skye, with
a lighthouse near the end.
Access
- take the B884 from Dunvegan to Glendale. Half a mile
beyond Glendale, turn left for Upper Milovaig then left
again for Waterstein and Neist Point. Carry on the the
car park at the end of the road, by the lighthouse supplies
hoist.
What
to see - you can take the footpath down to the lighthouse
(which you can't actually see from the car park, there's
a hill, An t-Aigeach, in the way) which, although steep
in parts offers good views of the coast as well. Alternatively,
climbing the hill to the north of the car park will
give a good view of the lighthouse peeking around the
side of An t-Aigeach.
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Ord
Bay
GR NG 616 131
On the western side of the Sleat Peninsular, Ord Bay
offers a good view of Bla Bheinn.
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale (for
the Mallaig ferry) and turn right a couple of miles
past Isle Ornsay. Follow this minor road over the hills
to Ord Bay.
What
to see - the bay, the river meandering into it and Bla
Bheinn beyond.
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Sligachan
GR NG 486 298
At the head of a deep sea loch, sligachan offers fine
views of the Cuillin Hills from the north-east.
Access
- Sligachan lies on the A87 Broadford-Portree road.
There is a layby just to the east of the bridge over
the river.
What
to see - the old bridge makes a great foreground for
a view with the river leading away into the distance
and the Cuillin Hills beyond. It's possible to frame
the hills in one of the bridge arches if you wish. Alternatively,
a walk along the river can give other good views. The
pathalong the right bank will eventually lead to Allt
Dearg House.
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Tarskavaig
Bay
GR NG 587 087
On the western side of the Sleat Peninsular, Tarskavaig
Bay is an interesting rocky bay.
Access
- Take the A851 from Broadford towards Armadale (for
the Mallaig ferry) and turn right at Kilbeg, a couple
of miles before Armadale. Follow this minor road over
the hills to Tarskavaig Bay. At the highest point of
the road (GR NG 620 073) there is a good view to be
had looking across Loch Dughaill towards Bla Bheinn.
What
to see - apart from the views on the road over, there
is the bay itself with the river meandering across it
and to the right is a curious natural volcanic dyke.
There are interesting rock formations on the other side
of the bay too.
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Tarskavaig
Bay
GR NG 585 092
Leaving Tarskavaig Bay (above) to the north, there is
a magnificent viewpoint at the top of the hill.
What
to see - in the distance to the south-west lies the
island of Rhum, whilst looking north-west offers Tarskavaig
Point and the Cuillin Hills betond.
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The
Quiraing
GR NG 452 691
A strange, dramatic landscape of volcanic pillars with
eroded drops between them and the main escarpment.
Access
- The Quiraing lies on the minor road cutting across
the Trotternish peninsular between Brogaig and Uig.
There are two means of access, the first being a car
park by the cemetary (1½ miles west of Brogaig)
under the ridge, from where you can walk up to The Quiraing.
The alternative is to park at the top of the pass, half
a mile west, and walk along to The Quiraing on more
the same level.
Wha
to see - the strange landscape of The Quiraing itself
and the stunning views to the east and south-east.
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The
Storr
GR NG 508 528
An incredible landscape of cliffs and rock pillars dominated
by the 161-foot high Old Man of Storr.
Access
- take the A855 Trotternish peninsular road out of Portree.
After passing a couple of lochs on the right (Loch
Fada being one of them) you will find the car park
and footpath on the left. You can walk right up to The
Storr and the base of the Old Man but be warned - it's
a steep path ascending 1000 feet and the terrain at
the top is very rough and broken. You also need to be
wary of rock falls from the cliffs above.
What
to see - rocks, rocks and more rocks. The Old Man dominates
the landscape but Needle Rock (a pinnacle pierced by
erosion) is also worth a look. alos, there are fine
views to the east and south-east. It's easy to lose
track of time up there, when I last went I spent over
2 hours and it didn't seem like half that.
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The
Storr views
For those who are not energetic or just don't want to
climb up to The Storr, there are several good viewpoints
along the road.
The
first two have been covered already, Bride's
Veil waterfall and Loch Fada.
There is also a layby at GR NG 499 516, and a few other
places that it's possible to pull off the road.
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Views
from Kyleakin
GR NG 754 264
Kyleakin is where the Skye Ferry used to land from Kyle
of Lochalsh before the bridge was built.There is a large
car park beside the shore and a viewpoint by the old
ferry pier.
Access
- turn off the A87 at the roundabout at the Skye end
of the Skye Bridge, the car park is on the left a few
hundred yards down.
What
to see - the Skye Bridge to the west with Kyleakin lighthose
below it, the small fishing harbour, views across Kyle
Akin and the ruins of Caisteal Maol to the east.
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